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L Capiton acts as a runway: to express himself a place for climbers and show his personality. Among all the existing routes, perhaps no stage is more pronounced than the “greatest route on earth” Salathe wall (VI 5.13C). The stored history of the route shows how individual style has constantly evolved into Yosemite, from the beginning – Just get ‘er The attitude of the 60s for our modern day free climb values. It has also inspired me to try to climb in the best style.

In 1961, Royal RobinsChak Prat, and Tom Frost first climbed Salathe wall On 5.9 A2, the second route on L Capiton after Warren Harding and nose (VI 5.9 A2) In 1958. They climbed 900 feet in the first three days before going down to start again. Four days later, he raised his definite ropes and continued the rest of the wall. Despite their primitive gear and organizations-include homemade hardware, lugware, lugware, cotton t-shirts and military surplus pants-they finished the route after six days.

The following year, Robins returned with frost and second climb, repeated their own passage and in the process the El Capiton completed the first continuous climb (ever returning to the ground). For them, climbing was the discovery and expression of equal parts. They also wanted to pursue themselves by improving their style. As a result, most of the valid ascending of L -cap would need to move forward that the parties never returned to the middle of the ground through a climb.

In 1979, Mark Haden and Max Jones may be “free as free” Salathe wallWearing bright yellow turtles, tight sweat, big down jackets and heightop eB shoes, they could free-climded as many aid pitches, such as they climbed 5.11 and 5.12 cracks above the floor of the valley. Hadan said about his climb, “We were going there to be just a bunch of fun and see what we can do.”

Hadan and Jones pushed the envelope of large wall -free climb during that climb, laying groundwork for Toddle Skinner and Paul Piana, who climbed the first team free Malevolent In 1988, each mountaineer dealt with a crucux pitch, which was then the second one. They climbed on two variation pitches from the original aid line (which is still not freed), dubbing the Teflon Corner (5.12D) and one and a bolt 5.11+ face over another famous headwall stopped for a long time. Skinner specifically put on the performance of his life, freeing the technical cracks of the route, a crooked corner on pitch 19, which he climbed with an intermediate belle and evaluated 5.13B at that time.

Skinner and Piana are often credited with the first free climb of L Capiton – but not always. “Neither the skinner nor the pianana can say that they have freed all the pitches, so neither can they say that they have freed Malevolent“Alex Hubber said in 1996 American Alpine Journal Where he claimed the first climb of the route as a person. Huber actually freed all the pitches during his climb, and he also improved some of them – such as when he climbed the headwall in two pitches when he unlike three of the previous accent (finishing a hanging belle). But Huber did not climb in the right style, either. A storm blew into the middle through his climb and he returned to the floor of the valley to wait. A few days later, resting well, he blocked the ropes back at his highpoint and continued the free climb. Higher, Huber left the Crux 5.13B corner through the 5.11A Monster ofwiddles, and took the lead to the boulder problem (5.13A) to escape from the seasonally wet teflon corner. For Huber, leaving the wall and returning-and less than a crucux pitch for a 10-literate-grade difference and less than avoiding the vine and sharing the lead. Huber said, “I only accept a redpoint, if all the pitches are connected without hands,” Hubber said. Climbing the headwall shirtless, her long hair was placed below with a thin headband, yellow lycra and blue rock shoes, which was once pushing her forward, it was clear that Hubber also had an eye for style.

In 2003, Jim Harsan made a second climb of origin MalevolentClimbing pitch 19 (eliminating the hanging belle used by the skinner and upgrading it to 5.13C), Teflon and Headwall, which he divides into three pitches. Ninety hours later he completed his climb, his son Connor was born. In June 2022, the younger Harsan completed the third climb, rebuilding Hedwall in two pitches. He also climbed the pitch 19, “it’s not Malevolent If you don’t climb the pitch 19 … then I am not left if I would not. ,

Alex Honold attempted to free Malevolent In a day in 2023, through the pitch 19 and Teflon, but the tireless flared on the headwall, the jamming eventually destroyed it and he topped the top without sending. “It seems a little deprived,” Honold said about following the original aid line, given that the demon offwide and pitch starts at 1919, which occurs almost in the same surrounding area. On the other hand, Jim Harsan says, “Alex brings an interesting point, if he ever manages to free the original. Malevolent“Despite this, that debate made much less to impress me.

“I can’t wait to see you free Malevolent“Mark Haden told me years ago,” but when you do, you climb pitch 19! “By the time I climbed into Yosemite, I dream of freeing the route. Only Todd Skinner, Jim Harsan, and Conner Harsan freed it during his ascending. Malevolent A very easy way was found. “This is the route,” Hadn said about the pitch 19. When he and Jones were climbing their “free as” free “, they did not look for a change in the existing line. He followed the original line of the first climb from bottom to top.

When I spent a month’s time, I went to the valley to support me in my chase. I finally felt ready to take on the fuckin, heating my favorite white cotton t-shirt, stretchy canvas pants, and jackets in belts. I left the hanging bails on the freeblast, sent pitch 19 (my first grade on L-cap), stems through the teflon corner, and added both the enduro corners and the roof into a wonderful 60-meter pitch. Although I failed to headwall in the “Lead-to-Jean” style by Japanese superstar Yuji Hiryama in 2002, I followed the tradition of climbing in yosemite, clinging to the original free line, clinging to the hanging vine, and trying to avoid the best climb, which could be more than only two days, which can be over two days, which can be over with the headwall.

After firing the enduro corners, draw the “roof” to the author. The quality of the video is bad – but the effort is very good, it is not even shared! Video: Nick Berry

“It was really touching,” Hadan told me about betraying on the headwall. For him, it was a moment that recalled his climb with Max 48 years ago. This was a dream truth for some of the best climbing days of my life on the edge of the Haden and on the edge of L Capiton.

Wool, Lycra and technical wool have faded from the wardrobes of most climbers these days. Some things in climbing, however, carry forward classic routes or individual boundaries, never go out of style. They are timeless and create a permanent feeling of fashion that I climb and what I see in my life. Malevolent Gave me this and reminded me why I like climbing in Yosemite – to feel something big, and to constantly improve my personal style.