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As someone whose regular climbing partner weighs 70 more pounds than me, I was not a stranger for Edellared Om, a piece of gear that was necessary, but full of shortcomings. So far, Om represented the only real option for a break assistant on the market. It is also called an assisted-breaking resistor, a break assistant is used in addition to the belle device. When a mountaineer weighs much more than Belleir, equipment like ohm adds friction. This essentially helps to make the belear “heavy”, which reduces the size of the whip and keeps the bellyer on the ground during a fall.

Edelid’s new break assistant device, OmegaBetter leaps and limitations from Om, to the extent the pair of climbing with weight difference should invest in one. Omega will be released in August.

How Edelid Omega works

Omega essentially acts as a cameing device attached to a small slings made of dynamic. The users open the cam with a button, then place the rope inside the cam. Then you attach a quickdra to the sling, and clip the quickdra in the bolt before a climb. Note that Edelrid recommends using the device only on sports routes, and is not designed to climb the trade. Depending on the weight difference between the sling climber and the bellyer, the braking offers three different levels of assistance. In the event of a decline, the cam breaks down. This ensures that the bellyer will not be sucked in the wall, and that the climber enjoys Soft grip,

I tested omega out with two climbing partners and in the gym. In Jackson Falls, my regular partner Morgan Miller first whipped from Bolt and third bolt. These falls ranged from about five feet to 25-foot falls. Given the difference of weight of our 70 pounds, her whip often on the wall, even with an ohm.

With omega, I barely left the ground, and Miller commented on how soft the catch was. Even when the first and second clips fell, Miller and I did not get close to touching each other – nor did he come close to touching the ground. Adjustable levels of braking also make sufficient differences. On a whip, we turned the setting into minimal aid with the most aid, resulting in Miller and I collapsed in each other.

As far as durability goes, after using omega on 50 routes, I only saw minor cosmetic scratches for plastic coating outside the device. Edelid says that the dynam sling element of the device will be changed, but the details are not yet clear how users can go about changing their sling.

In the gym, I used the least aid levels with Zona Ramirez, as we had a difference of only 30 pounds. Both Ramirez and Miller commented on how smooth clipping was. Om usually reduces a mountaineer. The rope is easily trapped in the cam, which requires the climber to disrupt and hard work to clean the rope. This also happens when the system is very dull. This is especially a problem on overhang routes. But with omega, the rope fed through the cam like butter, even on the most overhang routes climbing in the des mine. “Clipping with Omega is an air with Omega,” says Ramirez. I never felt that I was fighting against the device to clip at any point. “

A bang in the belle with a standard ohm on the wall takes a banging hand and an additional layer of skill that is not required. Generally with an Om, I can avoid receiving the rope caught on the cam, while my climb clip close to the wall, by located directly under the Om. If my climber hangs on the rope and wants to resume the climb, I usually have to shake the rope to leave it with the cam so that they can continue. Beling with omega does not require these micro techniques. Miller saw that Om “reduces the Beleir Skill Barrier, which is a big plus for climbers and Bellars.”

Edelid Om vs Edelrid Omega

Last year, Edelrid released a modified version of Om- but Omega is even better than this new Om 2.0. Omega and Om essentially work in the same way: in a falling event, the cam inside the device adds resistance and friction, reducing the size of the whip. The CAM size of the two devices, however, is slightly different; The omega is the rounder, who is made for a smooth balling experience.

The weight of omega is only 6.7 ounces, compared to the 16 ounces of Om. Of course, omega requires the use of a Quickdraw, but even in addition to this weight, it is still particularly light. It takes very little space in a harness and gear bag. Omega and Om are slightly different in ropes with which they are obedient. Ropes with a diameter of 8.6 to 10.5 mm can use omega, while ropes from 8.9 to 11 mm are compatible with Om.

Not only the rope feeds more smoothly through omega, but the device has also made a very pleasant experience. With Om, I still bore a lot of Miller and fought to pull into the wall continuously. When he was projecting or if I was doing it as he cleaned a path, my back and weapons were embraced. However, Omega turned out to be a game-changer. I did not need to dig in my heels and Miller had to bend back to keep the miller in his position while resting on the rope. While reducing the ramies in the gym, I did not have to catch the rope to prevent sucking in the Grigri. It was as if I was giving to a child instead of a heavy-to-old adult.

Miller compares the difference to the difference between an ATC and a grigri between two devices. “Both Om and Omega work, but the latter represents significant progress, which improves the quality of safety and overall experience for most climbers,” they say.

final conclusion

The climbers who should use an Om with me because their bellear often refuses because it can be clunk and reduce them. But with omega, they will not have an excuse, which will reduce the chances of conflict. This increases security for all involved. With the smooth rope dealing, adjustable levels of aid, and soft catch, omega is currently the best brake accessories available.

Edelrid has not yet officially released a price for Omega (launching in August) in the United States, but based on prices in other countries, omega will be retail for approximately $ 150. For some, it can be difficult to pay that cost if they have already spent money on an Om. Ultimately, however, it is a safe and more effective tool that benefits both mountaineers and Beller.