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In the early evening of May 28, 2025, at a distance of more than 1,000 feet from the Firoza River, which removes Catalonia from the rest of Spain, Edu Marin squint on the final pitch of his dream project.

He was losing light. His mouth was dry; He ran out of the first four pitches in the fourth-picch crucks. But only one 5.13B section separated him from completing it Donak perfeceimA 5.14 A/B mixed route on the Aragon wall of Mont-Rabi Gorge that was never freed.

Marin says, “I tried only twice before,” and when I came, I did not remember what to do. ,

For the previous month, Marin was combining eight pitches of 5.11D to 5.14B in a day -free climb of one day. Donak According to Marin, “with eight to 10 meters between the bolt or the cam,” is the highest runout. But elite Spanish climber, who once taken Screaming, forty-foot whipper But Valahila (5.15 A) In Gateu, China was more concerned about the aspect of the Sun. “It is shady only at 3 o’clock and comes at 9 or 9:30 pm, so I will have to run to the top with light,” they say.

After about five hours of attempt, Marin was tired. Three -fourth DonakThe pitches are 8A/5.13b or hard. He spent the last few weeks remembering the least parts; That was not just the last sequence. And when his hands started cramps, he slipped, falling into the air of more than twenty -five feet before his rope was caught on a pit.

“If I fell for the second time, I probably couldn’t do it,” they say. A “light and sharp” strategy left her with a bottle of empty water.

But there was still time for another attempt. Marin fell down at the base of the final pitch, took a few seconds to breathe, and resumed.

Back to rocks

For the last two years, 5.15 Sport climbers To focus on a different goal has taken a step back from projects abroad: Opening the gym in Catelonia. “When I had a child in Spain 30 years ago, I remember there were not many good climbing gyms,” Marin tells Ascension“Later, when I was 17 or 18 years old and started competing in the World Cup, I needed to travel to other countries like Italy, France, Austria and Germany, which for good climbing gyms because in Spain and Barcelona, ​​we did not have.”

Marin described herself as a “thick child” in a former, who experienced bullying when he was in middle school. Then, around the age of 12, he started climbing thanks to his father, Francisco “Novato” Marin“I fell in love with the game,” called Marin. “In a year, I probably lost 16 kg (35 pounds) and started climbing as much as possible.” Fortunately, one of some climbing gyms in Spain was just 10 minutes away from Marin’s house. “It was a light in my life,” they say. “It was a privilege to climb and get the game. I would like to give other children this opportunity – who grow up in a city.”

In 2023, the first repeat of repeat eternal Flame (VI 7C+/5.13A; 2,100 ft) On the Namless Tower in Pakistan, Marin began building in the gym with his brother Alex and his friends, Marco Jubes. He acquired a feature of 15,000 square feet in Lleida, a small town in Western Catalonia, surrounded by some of Spain’s best climb: Margelaf, Santa LinyaAnd OlianaOne in Documentary Regarding the construction of the gym, Marin called Lelida a “Sport climbing maize”.

The preparation of the building requires extensive manual demolition. Initially, Marin tried to train for his most difficult sports project so far, Chris Sharma’s Stop fire (9 b/5.15b), between breaking the walls with a sledhaimmer and shaking heavy equipment. But acute manual labor left him unsafe for overtrening. Marin eventually suffered a pulley injury and decided to focus on just one thing: completing the gym.

On October 5, 2024, Marin and his colleagues opened a radical lalida for the Jubilant crowd. “This another dream came true,” he says. Six days later, he announced on Facebook that he would return to a tough game climb. “After two years of construction, I return to the mountains with new projects and inspirations,” he wrote. “Let’s start the game!”

Solve the missing link

This spring, Marin wanted to work Stop fireBut the rain made the season “impossible” according to the Instagram post on 14 April. Instead, he sent Catxasa (9A+/5.15A) On April 12, match their most difficult grade. Then he attracted his attention Donak perfeceim,

“You need to imagine two walls about 400 meters (1,000 ft), one in front of one,” they say. “One of the walls is in Catalonia and the other wall is in Aragon. It is very beautiful because you are climbing above the river and you are looking at you in front of you in the river. Between the pitches, these big vultures are flying close to you. It’s super cool.”

Look Marin worked on steps Donak perfeceim In this video:

On May 28, when Marin tries the last pitch for the second time, he does not fall. Instead, he is at the top Donak With the first free climb of what is the most difficult multi-pitch in Mont-Rabi now.

When Marin spoke DonakHe first explains the ground-up morality of the Escationist, Carls Brasco and Isaac Cortes. “These people took five years to open the route,” they say. “They climbed the floor with their drill in hand. It is one of the more incredible morality I have seen.” While studying first aid climb, they say, assured him to prioritize the process on achievement. “We need to do things with passion and time,” they say. “It is more important that you do more things than what you do. This is a good mantra for me and the new generation.” Moving forward, Marin says he would like to repeat the style of bolting on lead. “This is something new to me,” they say. “I need to spend months or years in this new style.”

It is only later, then he sent DonakThat they felt that the route is the missing piece for one of their lifetime dreams: the establishment of the “Iberian trilogy”.

What is in the trilogy?

“When I was a child, I had my idols, and I was really inspired Alpine trilogy“Marin says. Recently completed by Robbie Philips, Alps contains three long 5.14 routes in Alps, each has been placed in 1994: Malevolent (8B+/5.14A) in Switzerland, End of silence (8B+/5.14A) in Germany, and Des Kaiser Neu Clader (8B+/5.14A) in Austria. “Thirty years later, I had the idea of ​​creating an Iberian trilogy, not only for myself – Surrey, it’s for myself, because I climb to me – but to the courageous people of the next generation,” says Marin. “I started thinking about it; I chose the most beautiful and symbol lines in Spain.”

Marin chose Orbayu (8c/5.14b; 1,670 ft) Picos Day in Europe, north of Spain, and Arro iris (8C+/5.14c; 650 ft) in Montserat, near Barcelona, ​​as the other two multi-pitch routes in Iberian Trillji. Now it is free, Donak perfeceim Out of the list.

The world’s best sports climber knows both Orbayu And Arro iris As pieces of challenging tests. In 2009, IKER and Eneko Pou made the first free climb Orbayu At 8C+/9A or 5.14C/D, it became the most difficult multi-pitch in the world, but was later downed up to 8C/5.14B. IKER POU has “ever offered the most important route to us.” Literally taken, Orbayu is a blurred rain in the northern Spain’s Basque country, where the Pouse brothers were born. Sedric Lachhat, who sent Orbayu In 2014, written In a blog post A major difficulty to send was looking for a window to climb between Orbayu and the Sun. “This is a good drizzle that resembles a harmless fog, but you get wet in seconds,” he said. In 2015, Marin repeated the fifth of the route, called it “one of the world’s best quality rocks”. So far, eight people have sent a climb.

,Donak perfeceim Is really similar Orbayu In style, “Marin says.” It is slightly more but it is more technical. Both are Alpine Multipich, which means that you need to protect several pitches with gear. You have scary runouts, and you need to be comfortable with it. ,

Other routes, Arro irisSpain has the most difficult multi-picked climb. Marin made himself the first climb in 2020. Orbayu And Donak perfeceimIt is more overhangling and powerful. Even if it runs out for 15-meter (50-foot) between the bolts, Marin calls it “not alpine style” because it is all bolted protection. Nevertheless, the group rock type is one of the best that it has climbed. “It’s like crazy because when you start climbing, you are afraid [the rock] Will break, but after a few days, you realize that it is safe and then you start climbing well. Currently, apples are the only other person to free berths Arro iris,

Asked which other climber he hopes to repeat the trilogy, Marin directly named the berth. “Honestly, I am difficult to be inspired by the next generation,” he says, “but this boy is one of the next-jewelery climbers who inspire me more for my style, moral and mental strength.”

But regardless of the fact that the marin emphasizes the importance of climbing in the moment, not to chase the grade or run through the routes. “We live in a digital society, one of the immedia and stress, and this type of project re -combines you with its essence,” he says. “In this type of process, you need to take time out to appreciate simple things – with your partner or with your father, to join again. After every project, I feel happy and I feel gratitude for the time spent there. I think it is a good message for those who spend so many hours in the digital world.”